Last week, I purchased an ice cream maker. I've wanted one for quite a while now, and with Ann's secret cool kid entry code/super pass to
Cook's Illustrated I was able to identify the best ice cream maker for under $100. In fact, it was about $50! (Crate&Barrel comes through again!)
Here's a pic, minus the freezer bowl, which was, at the time of the photo shoot, sitting happily in my freezer.
It's the Cuisinart ICE-21, the next generation ICE-20, which was the machine that
CI recommended.
CI also came in handy for finding tried&tested recipes for ice creams to make with my handy new kitchen space hog, err... gadget. I ultimately went with strawberry, since last week was essentially the height of our 4-week-long heat wave, and vanilla didn't feel
inaugural enough for a first batch and chocolate seemed a little too much for so much heat. I probably would've made a sorbet or something, but that didn't seem inaugural enough either.
Anyway, the recipe, courtesy of America's Test Kitchen for
Strawberry Ice Cream (published July 1, 1993):
Makes 1 quart.
Though the frozen ice cream will keep in the freezer for up to 2 days, its flavor and texture are best when it is eaten the day it is made. [Note: Soooo true. Don't try to eat it, like, 5 days later. Not as yummy. However, don't try to eat 1 quart of ice cream on your own in 2 days either. Even with 2 people it's tough. Next time, I'm throwing a party.]
16 ounces fresh strawberries (about 3 cups), hulled and sliced
Pinch salt
1 1/4 cups granulated sugar (8 3/4 ounces) [
Note: I think I'd cut the sugar a wee bit more.]
1 1/4 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups heavy cream
6 large egg yolks
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
3 Tablespoons vodka [
Note: I omitted this. My personal bar only has gin and scotch.]
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
Toss the strawberries, salt, and 1/2 cup of the sugar together in a medium nonreactive saucepan. Mash the berries gently with a potato masher until slightly broken down. Let stand, stirring occasionally, until the berries have released their juices and the sugar has dissolved, 40 to 45 minutes.
Meanwhile, position a strainer over a medium bowl set in a larger bowl containing ice water. Heat the milk, cream, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and the salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until steam appears and the milk is warm (about 175 degrees), about 5 minutes. While the milk is heating, whisk the yolks and remaining 1/4 cup sugar in a medium bowl until combined and pale yellow. Whisk about half the warm milk mixture into the beaten yolks, 1/2 cup at a time, until combined. Whisk the milk-yolk mixture into the warm milk in the saucepan; set the saucepan over medium heat and cook, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until steam appears, foam subsides, and the mixture is slightly thickened or an instant-read thermometer registers 180 to 185 degrees. (Do not boil the mixture, or the eggs will curdle.) Immediately strain the custard into the bowl set in the ice-water bath; cool the custard to room temperature, stirring it occasionally to help it cool.
While the custard is cooling, set the saucepan containing the berries over medium-high heat and bring the mixture to a simmer, stirring occasionally, until the berries are softened and broken down, about 3 minutes total. Strain the berries, reserving the juices. Transfer the berries to a small bowl; stir in the lemon juice and vodka, then cool to room temperature, cover with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until cold. Stir the vanilla and the reserved juices into the cooled custard, cover the bowl with plastic wrap, and refrigerate until an instant-read thermometer registers 40 degrees or lower, at least 3 hours or up to 24 hours.
Pour the custard into the ice cream machine canister and churn, following the manufacturer’s instructions, until the mixture resembles soft-serve ice cream. [Note: The ICE-21 notes recommended about 15 minutes, so that's what I did.] Add the strawberries and any accumulated juices; continue to churn the ice cream until the berries are fully incorporated and slightly broken down, 1 to 2 minutes. Transfer the ice cream to an airtight container, press plastic wrap flush against the surface, cover the container, and freeze the ice cream until firm, at least 2 hours.
That's it!
I accidentally overcooked the custard portion and watched in horror as my eggs began to curdle (pay attention and stop dancing around in the kitchen to country music!), but I think I pulled it off the heat in the nick of time because the ice cream came out pretty damn good. The photo below doesn't do it justice (crappy layout and crappy iPhone shot), but I think my little brother's reaction to his first spoonful wraps it up nicely: "Wow. That's damn good."
Amen, brother! Happy summer!
