Sunday, January 31, 2010

Risotto-style Barley (a dilemma)


I feel a little uncomfortable about this - it's a rather public forum for me to be gushing over someone I don't even know. But I love 101cookbooks, and its creator, Heidi Swanson, by extension. I rarely actually follow her recipes word-for-word, but they never fail to inspire me, and it's only a matter of time before this blog just turns into a clearinghouse for her recipes. My aunt gave me her cookbook, Super Natural Cooking, a few years ago and it took me a while to connect the cookbook and the blog, but it was a pretty exciting day for me to find a whole bunch more recipes like those in the book.

I was on a bit of a barley kick (actually I just had a bunch of barley to use up from the soup) and had always wanted to try her risotto-style barley. What a novel idea! Something as delicious as risotto, made with a whole(r) grain (the barley you'd use for this is still polished, but not as much as the rice, I'm assuming - it starts out browner, anyway). I followed the recipe to the letter (well, I used yogurt instead of sour cream), and I didn't like it. Not one bit. It was at once bland and unpleasantly sour. Rarely am I unable to finish the leftovers of something I've made (so frugal!) but there's still some of this left in the fridge from two weeks ago (good thing it's garbage day).

So here's my dilemma: I think of this blog as a space for tested recipes that are known to be good, or at least happy experiments. Sharing something here means it's worth replicating. So, do I post the recipe for something I thought was awful? I decided to - I had a pretty photo! And maybe you can suggest where I went wrong.

Risotto-style Barley with Winter Citrus and Arugula
from Super Natural Cooking by Heidi Swanson

3 T extra-virgin olive oil
1 yellow onion, chopped
1 or 2 shallots, chopped (optional - I did not take the option)
3 cloves garlic, chopped
1 tsp fine-grain sea salt (okay, I used Morton's iodized, but I long for the day I'm discerning enough to detect iodine in my food)
2 cups lightly pearled barley
1 cup good-quality dry white wine (I actually have no idea what I used here, but I wonder if it wasn't a good choice)
6 cups water
1 orange
grated zest of 1 lemon
1/2 cup freshly grated parmesan cheese
1/2 cup creme fraiche or sour cream (yogurt)
2 handfuls of arugula, coarsely chopped
handful of chopped toasted walnuts, for garnish

Heat the olive oil in a large, heavy pan over medium heat, then add the onion, shallots, garlic, and salt, and sauté for about 4 minutes, until onion begins to soften.

Add the barley to the pot and stir until coated with a nice sheen, then add the white wine and simmer for a few minutes, until the barley has absorbed some of the liquid. Adjust heat to maintain a gentle simmer.

In increments, add about 6 cups of water, 1 cup at a time, letting the barley absorb most of the liquid between additions; this should take around 40 minutes all together. Stir regularly so the barley at the bottom doesn't scorch. You'll know when it's done because the barley won't offer much resistance to chewing (although it will still bill chewier than arborio rice). Don't worry if there's some unabsorbed liquid in the pot.

Meanwhile, grate the zest of the orange and peel and segment it. Cut the segments in half, reserving any juice. When the barley is tender, stir in the orange zest, segments and juice, lemon zest, Parmesan, and creme fraiche. Taste and adjust seasoning, then stir in the arugula. Top with the toasted walnuts before serving.

Easily serves 4 to 6.

3 comments:

  1. A- My good friend from College read our blog and had this to say about your dilemma: "Here's my take on the barley risotto..... Depending on the time of year oranges and arugala can have very different flavors (sweet or sour, bitter or mild). I would say that winter is probably not the best time to get great flavors out of those ingredients. Also, the yogurt might have made the dish a bit runnier and more sour than the alternatives. Creme fraiche is creamier and higher in fat than the other two options. Sour cream also tends to taste creamier when used in recipes. All in all though, it didn't sound THAT great to me in the beginning. Maybe it's not you... just the recipe!! That's all the advice I have on that one!"

    ReplyDelete
  2. Assuming the stirring of liquid and liquid addition went in a true-to-form and slow risotto style, the only thing I'd also comment on is the orange... I mean, orange? In risotto? I'm all for creativity, but a problem with naming something risotto is that you then expect risotto, but once you start diverting to things like orange (the Italians, I'm sure, would have a heart attack), it's no longer risotto at all. My guess is that you thought the recipe sounded interesting enough... I'd disagree with T's friend - citrus is in season in the south (having lived in FL, I remember 2 bursts of orange tree activity per year) - but, ah, maybe the flavors are different. Anyway, I'd agree with T that perhaps the recipe isn't that great to begin with, but I'd also venture to say that introducing orange into the mix is just plain wrong.

    ReplyDelete
  3. I did have that feeling as I read you were supposed to stir the orange segments into the risotto...but honestly maybe it would have been better if if the oranges had tasted like something - these were kind of dry. Or maybe it was the recipe. I just love and trust her recipes so much...except, come to think of it, this is the only one I've ever actually followed...

    ReplyDelete